WINK & NOD

wnnWink & Nod

3 Appleton Street (South End)

It was a jovial crew that met at the South End’s tucked away Wink & Nod in November. This was pre-election, post Halloween, before the holidays, you know…good times. Our destination du jour plays the part of a modern-day speakeasy, but not to a fault. In fact, the quiet door on a seemingly residential street is all quite appealing, and the interior consisting of bar and high tops on one side, and intimate small table settings on the other, surpasses charming. It gets a grown-up grade of Cool.

We arrived in bits and pieces as can be our habit and the host was affable, welcoming us to wait at the bar for our party to complete itself. Upon reflection, we wonder why he didn’t point out that we would be, in effect, sitting at a long table within the bar (which sat unoccupied while we caused all manner of movement this way and that at the bar itself). Honestly, it didn’t bother us but the other patrons were forced to accommodate our ever-growing numbers, and we feel for them.

The bartender at Wink & Nod was superb. We loved his forthrightness (ie, he said when a drink wasn’t worth it) and his timeliness (he saw to our needs, and made efforts to ensure our comfort on the belly-up side). And there was this drink OH MAN that curled our toes (in that good way). No, seriously: Go and get the Holiday in Holland. You should only order one, but if it was a hard day, two should make everything better.

Eventually we found our way to our table (not far–we could feel the annoyed stares from the customers who had moved to make room, and we did feel for them). And it was cozy and private and easy discourse ensued. We ordered a round to keep us company whilst we considered the menu…alas, our waitress took a LONG time. And then one BCC member received a glass of red wine when she had ordered Sauvignon Blanc (easily remedied, sure…except it took 15 more minutes…) But the food. Now, the food was fun.

Wink & Nod is a foster parent of sorts to up-and-coming restauranteurs and fledgling eateries. It hosts a new “restaurant group” every few months, giving them a chance to test their menus and their skills on a clientele they’ve no doubt wooed back time and time again with that Holiday in Holland cocktail (really, it was that good). During our visit we were treated to Nepalese fare: Gita. And overall the BCC enjoyed the meal hugely and recommends going before the rotation means Gita moves on as something new moves in–presumably this happens in January 2017.

Being a largish group with a somewhat piggish tendency, we ordered one of each of the small plates: the Momo (pot stickers with pork, spicy tomato chutney) were tasty; the Lamb Kofta a nice example; the Singara (yes, there was phyllo dough with beef and eggplant) delish; the Puri (lentil, chickpea, potato in pastry) YUM; and the Paneer with Chickpea Salad and Date Chutney simply excellent. The big loser here was the Garlic Cheese Naan, which was hard, tasteless, and a pass. We included a full order of the Butter Chicken (almonds, cashews, cocunut rice), which again brought pleasure as expected.

But while our revolving door of food offerings moved quite satisfyingly, we frequently sat unattended to, with empty drink glasses (Rule Number 1 in service: drinks increase the check total, please the patron and the house, and result in better tips) and no water (and the food had moments of fire!) What we enjoyed in time and privacy we also would have traded for experience in our waitstaff. The restaurant was not overcrowded and there was little reason to be left wanting.

We ended the night ordering one of each of the desserts on the menu and people, let me tell you…if any place can promise you’ll get lucky, this might be it. You can’t help but scrape the plate and lick the spoon…lingeringly. The chocolate cake went to that place that few dare. And it was “ooh la la!” BIG. The mascarpone cheesecake delighted and we dipped into a brulee type dream, but the big winner of the night was a pineapple shortcake that dripped of butter and inspired very sweet dreams indeed. The BCC hesitates not in suggesting a scotch and a sweet at Wink & Nod, whatever night and whatever time it might be.

As to be expected, there was an excellent selection of scotch and bourbon on hand, which satisfied some. But one BCC member desired a White Russian. And as many know, you shouldn’t defy a girl’s wishes right at that moment when she’s just about convinced…that you’re as good as you say you are. It is too bad, then, on several accounts, that the bar chooses not to stock the not-so-rare ingredients necessary to satisfy even one fair maiden’s post-dinner desire. The result is a few cocks short of perfection. Go back, but only if Kahlua isn’t the elixir you have in mind.

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BUKOWSKI TAVERN & UNI

Uni

BUKOWSKI TAVERN & UNI

50 Dalton Street / 370 Commonwealth (Boston)

Admittedly, only three members bellied up to Bukowski’s bar prior to the May BCC #BosCock meeting, but it still rates a mention in our review because…well…it’s Bukowski’s. How do we love thee? Let us count the ways: a fine array of brews, from cask to can; the wheel that you spin, joyfully and without hesitation; the tunes you may not have heard before, but hope to hear again; the bartenders, who would never call themselves mixologists; the White Trash Cheese Dip, just because; and the fact that it is cash only (really, that is a selling point). And why was it the pitch-perfect pitstop prior to the centerpiece of our evening (a meal down the street and around the corner)? Because it stands unapologetically on the other side of the bridge.

Our approach to Uni involved dodging post-work-Wellies and raincoats as we squinted unhappily through the rather unwelcome drizzle. But then, before us, stood the elaborately decorated door that indicated our destination had been reached. We all immediately loved the vibe: take sexy hotel lounge, add a dose of sweet 90s hiphop, and shake that thang with potent and colorful drinks. We joined those of our group who had already set up shop, beginning with cocktails at the bar. And here, yes, we had a mixologist who took himself as seriously as I suppose you should when you wield eyedroppers and measuring cups more often than you tug on tap handles. But to be fair, perhaps the title was well earned…he produced a FABULOUS beverage.

Every once in a while you get a drink that, well, is the reason why we drink. These cocktails were, in a word, delicious. Favorites included the El Diablo (tequila, cassis, lime, ginger, soda) which meant El Dangerouso since it went down VERY easily. BCC members characterized it as “refreshing,” “spicy,” “sweet,” “perfect.” The Mint Julep was served in a bodacious silver shaker with a tantalizing glaze of frost and a “HELLO” giant sprig of mint—a bold choice that seemed open to being shared, and we passed it along from member to member throughout the pre-dinner portion of the night. We also sampled a wondrous concoction, complete with hibiscus garnish—the Tropical Itch started delightfully sweet with a bitter/sour and dry finish.  Each sip was like a first kiss that gets serious. (And who doesn’t like that?)

We could have sat at the bar for another hour clucking like chickens, but our half-moon-shaped banquette nested our group nicely in a corner with a view of the rest of the dining room and a misty Mass Ave. The hostess was quite eager to seat us and very friendly—but BCC members found our server less than helpful. He looked stunned when we asked him to tell us a bit about several items on the menu, and frankly, he seemed annoyed by our presence most of the evening. If you have ever been on a blind date where one side or the other doesn’t “get” what he or she expected, well, it was a lot like that: he kept his contributions to a minimum, as if hoping that our time together would end sooner if he gave us the cold shoulder. Unfortunately for him, we were all in to see it through all the way to dessert. (After all, we were paying.)

We tamed our drink habits a tad at the table, with a misordered Gewurztraminer  that was presumed a match for spicy menu items, but went way too far down the spiral to sweet, a perfectly nice Chardonnay that was priced perfectly outrageously, and a martini that was less than impressive (ordered multiple olives, got one; ordered extra dirty, wasn’t—had to order a side of olive juice).

Each member ordered two to three dishes to share, as is our custom. The Uni menu is certainly extensive, overwhelmingly so. Where to go? Cold? Hot? Sushi? Not? We started with Brussels Sprouts that amounted to charred goodness, mixed with bright dill and other herbs.  An interesting flavor (“like potato chips you just can’t stop eating,” admitted one member, her mouth full). We’ll substitute grilled Brussels Sprouts for lame old Lays any day of the week.

The Spicy Tuna Roll lived up to its name. We agreed it was one of the best we’ve ever had, scantily dressed in a spicy sauce that had a serious kick and a lasting heat. Spoiler alert: It is served with a side of onions disguised as pickled ginger, which took a few of us by surprise as we chomped down. The Wagyu Beef Dumplings (cheddar dashi, braised lettuce) were fairly forgettable and a mystery dish with a heavy tomato-based sauce that we all agreed was not worth the presumed calories. The Asian Cheesy Corn with shrimp crackers got a nod, but thumbs down on the Japanese Milk Bread, which impressed no one. The group collectively enjoyed the Chang Mai Duck Carnitas (green papaya salsa, scallion pancake, cucumber), our official acknowledgment of Cinco de Mayo, Japanese-BosCock style.

The star centerfold of the evening was the Green Curry Crab Fried Rice (burdock root, egg, sesame), and it even came as a hefty portion that enabled us all to sample a sizeable several bites. Full of bold flavor with a lively kick and superb balance. Highly recommended.

We sampled all three desserts, including a “milky cereal” that L.L himself would be proud of. Want it straight? We’d save dessert for home if dining here. But there’s no reason you shouldn’t get in the mood at Uni first.

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cock-rating-4.25

THE GALLOWS

TheGallows

The Gallows

1395 Washington Street (South End)

Let’s just start by saying that The Gallows is the perfect friend with benefits. The place looks great and you like it enough to hook up whenever you need to get some (in this case fried food) but you know you could never live with each other on a regular basis.

Our November meeting commenced as usual with drinks in the bar area, which was not an unpleasantly packed, flannel-encased sausagefest…perhaps also telling, considering the pork-heavy Gallows dinner menu. The restaurant seats your party when you’ve all finally found parking (no small feat on Washington), and we had a great banquette table facing the massive Ouija-Board Wall—it felt private and roomy while allowing for a great view when we chose to look beyond our plates. Above us flew what might be the most diverting aspect of the decor: hundreds of suspended toy bats, which honestly add appeal and whimsy where you might not expect it (like that friend with bennies spontaneously holding your hand as you cross the street).

With a handful of BCC members claiming French Canadian lineage, the poutine was a highly desirable feature, and we went whole hog with the Out of Control “Chef’s Debauchery” option. The OOC poutine changes according to the whims of the kitchen wizards (or witches, if we want to hold close to The Gallows theme), and we chose to be surprised. What arrived was admittedly a great opening move: a massive mound of the required fries and cheese curd but lusciously laden with decadent slabs of duck that was deliciously done and Padron peppers, aka “Spanish Roulette.” The claim here is that some of these peppers are mild while others contain the fire of hell. We BCC members all like a good bite every now and again, so we divvied up the score and dove in. While none of us were rewarded with that so-bad-its-good burn, the peppers were still damn tasty and the perfect complement to the poutine plate. It was, all members agreed (“Quebecers,” too), hands down the best dish of the night.

Because we are greedy when it comes to drink, food, and love, we fondled our fries, ordered more drinks, and bellied up: The Scotch Egg was tastily prepared on an addictive fried, pork-sausage crust. While the Fried Green Tomatoes with prosciutto were flavorful, they too were (obviously) fried, and we could be said to have not found the fontina and aioli drizzle the most appealing aspect of our first-course foreplay. Chipotle Sweet Potato came paired with “bruleed” (aka toasted) fluff and curried pecans, and while the seasoning was not one any of us complained about, it did feel like eating cookies in bed, before dinner. A bit bad, but not in the best way. The Moules Frites were quite pleasing with lively flavors of fennel and peppers. What not to order? The Steak Bomb Pierogies. An overly salty fried (yes, again) disaster. We left several on the plate to be cleared. (Not our tendency…I mentioned that greed thing.)

There comes a time when you’re ready to stop fooling around and get serious, and we made that move boldly, going with the Franken-Burger for the table. While I don’t know that our server was thrilled with our penchant for sharing, it’s a good thing we did, because this baby (even divvied up into sixths) nailed us all to the booth: burger patty + bacon + pulled pork + fried chicken thigh + foie gras aioli = sigh, roll over, and fall contentedly asleep. (Note the amount of salt in the burger would require a midnight wake-up and emergency glass of water.) Agreeing on a side salad instead of fries, we then made the errant, several-drinks-in call to order “one more thing” and it was a disappointing mound of new potatoes masquerading as Patatas Bravas. We’ll admit to being over the potato by then, but the dish’s complete lack of, well, anything interesting, made it a table decoration and little more.

We finished the evening with the one dessert offered, billed as the “Stoner’s Delight,” and certainly living up to that standard. Chocolate, fluff, peanutbutter, bananas…it was familiar and comforting and tasted just as you expected. This, the restaurant’s vibe, the satisfactory although unremarkable service, and the poutine, left us happy enough to FWB The Gallows number, knowing there will surely be a night we’ll dial again.

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cock-rating-3.5