3 Appleton Street (South End)
It was a jovial crew that met at the South End’s tucked away Wink & Nod in November. This was pre-election, post Halloween, before the holidays, you know…good times. Our destination du jour plays the part of a modern-day speakeasy, but not to a fault. In fact, the quiet door on a seemingly residential street is all quite appealing, and the interior consisting of bar and high tops on one side, and intimate small table settings on the other, surpasses charming. It gets a grown-up grade of Cool.
We arrived in bits and pieces as can be our habit and the host was affable, welcoming us to wait at the bar for our party to complete itself. Upon reflection, we wonder why he didn’t point out that we would be, in effect, sitting at a long table within the bar (which sat unoccupied while we caused all manner of movement this way and that at the bar itself). Honestly, it didn’t bother us but the other patrons were forced to accommodate our ever-growing numbers, and we feel for them.
The bartender at Wink & Nod was superb. We loved his forthrightness (ie, he said when a drink wasn’t worth it) and his timeliness (he saw to our needs, and made efforts to ensure our comfort on the belly-up side). And there was this drink OH MAN that curled our toes (in that good way). No, seriously: Go and get the Holiday in Holland. You should only order one, but if it was a hard day, two should make everything better.
Eventually we found our way to our table (not far–we could feel the annoyed stares from the customers who had moved to make room, and we did feel for them). And it was cozy and private and easy discourse ensued. We ordered a round to keep us company whilst we considered the menu…alas, our waitress took a LONG time. And then one BCC member received a glass of red wine when she had ordered Sauvignon Blanc (easily remedied, sure…except it took 15 more minutes…) But the food. Now, the food was fun.
Wink & Nod is a foster parent of sorts to up-and-coming restauranteurs and fledgling eateries. It hosts a new “restaurant group” every few months, giving them a chance to test their menus and their skills on a clientele they’ve no doubt wooed back time and time again with that Holiday in Holland cocktail (really, it was that good). During our visit we were treated to Nepalese fare: Gita. And overall the BCC enjoyed the meal hugely and recommends going before the rotation means Gita moves on as something new moves in–presumably this happens in January 2017.
Being a largish group with a somewhat piggish tendency, we ordered one of each of the small plates: the Momo (pot stickers with pork, spicy tomato chutney) were tasty; the Lamb Kofta a nice example; the Singara (yes, there was phyllo dough with beef and eggplant) delish; the Puri (lentil, chickpea, potato in pastry) YUM; and the Paneer with Chickpea Salad and Date Chutney simply excellent. The big loser here was the Garlic Cheese Naan, which was hard, tasteless, and a pass. We included a full order of the Butter Chicken (almonds, cashews, cocunut rice), which again brought pleasure as expected.
But while our revolving door of food offerings moved quite satisfyingly, we frequently sat unattended to, with empty drink glasses (Rule Number 1 in service: drinks increase the check total, please the patron and the house, and result in better tips) and no water (and the food had moments of fire!) What we enjoyed in time and privacy we also would have traded for experience in our waitstaff. The restaurant was not overcrowded and there was little reason to be left wanting.
We ended the night ordering one of each of the desserts on the menu and people, let me tell you…if any place can promise you’ll get lucky, this might be it. You can’t help but scrape the plate and lick the spoon…lingeringly. The chocolate cake went to that place that few dare. And it was “ooh la la!” BIG. The mascarpone cheesecake delighted and we dipped into a brulee type dream, but the big winner of the night was a pineapple shortcake that dripped of butter and inspired very sweet dreams indeed. The BCC hesitates not in suggesting a scotch and a sweet at Wink & Nod, whatever night and whatever time it might be.
As to be expected, there was an excellent selection of scotch and bourbon on hand, which satisfied some. But one BCC member desired a White Russian. And as many know, you shouldn’t defy a girl’s wishes right at that moment when she’s just about convinced…that you’re as good as you say you are. It is too bad, then, on several accounts, that the bar chooses not to stock the not-so-rare ingredients necessary to satisfy even one fair maiden’s post-dinner desire. The result is a few cocks short of perfection. Go back, but only if Kahlua isn’t the elixir you have in mind.
The Boston Cocktail Club 